I first heard about the greatness of the 2004 vintage in Piedmont a few years ago when Italian importers began bringing in the fresh and crisp Arneis bottlings from the Roero hills. I was thrilled by the overall balance of fruit and acidity in these aromatic whites. This was a precursor for great things to come. The next wave of wines that I tasted, noting the overall pedigree, was the wave of Dolcettos and Barberas that were starting to hit the market. Perfetto!! Both un-oaked, entry level versions to the single vineyard designates dressed in flashy oak have put me in a state of gastronomic wellness. In the back of my mind, I realized that there would be a treasure trove of spectacular Nebbiolo from the esteemed the villages of Barbaresco and Barolo to follow.
The Piedmont harvest in 2004 was marred by heavy winter rains. Although welcomed after the hot and dry 2003 season, there was all out concern for delayed bud break and early attacks of downy mildew in the vineyards. The summer was picture perfect, with moderate temperatures, allowing for the vine to develop normally. Then September and early October was noted by seasonally high temperatures and days of full sunshine allowing for growers to wait for the opportune time to pick at perfect ripeness. Many veteran vintners couldn’t remember a vintage like this one since 1990 and perhaps the legendary 1964 vintage. Growers who maintained low yields were rewarded for their hard work for a vintage in which the international wine community is running out of superlatives to describe. Winemakers were enthralled by the quality, purity, balance and intensity that the vintage produced.
Fast forward to fourth quarter 2007: Vinfolio announces the first release of cru classé Nebbiolo from the village of Barbaresco. Let’s get excited here! The fleet of Barbaresos are similar to 2001, but with more generosity of fruit and finesse that you should expect from this village. 2004 Barolo from all reports is lining up to be a classic, and must have for the serious collector and budding collector wanting to expand into a classic age-worthy category. The vintage showcases wines with loads of ripe fruit that is both concentrated and floral. Tannin levels are more present compared to let’s say the noted 2000 vintage; however, they are rounder and more finely integrated as a finish product. Vinfolio will start posting pre-arrival confirmations on the 2004 Barolo releases starting in early winter and spring 2008. Please e-mail me at neil@vinfolio.com, if you want to receive e-mail alerts on incoming 2004 selections.
2004 Barbaresco and Barolo should be on every collector’s priority list. For the Piedmont enthusiast or even newbie, I highly recommend purchasing more entry level 2004 Langhe Nebbiolo, Dolcetto and Barberas to drink now. Collectors should note that the overall quality of Barbaresco and Barolo will allow for cellar age-ability for at least 7 to 15 years of time.
Please note a few highlights of the vintage that have posted in our wine store in the last month:
2004 Domenico Clerico ‘Langhe Arte’ $44.00-750ml, (AG 90)
A 90% Nebbiolo and 10% Barbera assemblage all dressed up for the party! A modern interpretation seasoned new French barrique. The fruit is sourced from noted Monforte d’Alba crus of Ginestra, Pajana and Bussia. A great cellar buy if you want to keep in budget!
2004 Ronchi Barbaresco $37.00-750ml & $82.00-1.5L (VF 92)
This is too tempting to drink now at a steal of a price! Although an infant, this wine is already silky and voluptuous out of the gate. You’ll want to supersize to the magnum format.
2004 Ceretto Barbaresco ‘Bricco Asili’ $119.00- 750ml & $245.00-1.5L (WA 94)
Bricco Asili was the first Ceretto holding that dates back to 1973. 2004 has enough violets on the nose to make your head spin in amazement!
2004 Vietti Barbaresco ‘Masseria’ $84.95-750ml & $185.00-1.5L (WA 93)
Castiglione Falletto powerhouse Vietti produces a barrage of great wines, however the ‘Masseria’ multiple personality of elegance on the nose paired with intensity of espresso, sweet pipe tobacco and black licorice makes for an intriguing acquisition!
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