This post was inspired by two articles in the NY Times that discuss ideal glass shapes and how different stemware can affect the way someone experiences the aroma, taste and harmony of a wine. “This Glass Is for the Cabernet, That One the Pinot Noir” (9/16/07) discusses Riedel Crystal’s theory of designing varietal specific stemware, while “A Tall Glass Makes The Best of Bubbles” (12/25/96) rates 18 different Champagne glasses priced $2.75 to $85 each. While informative, both articles incite you to do more testing on your own.
As a wine enthusiast, I often contemplate whether I have the ideal stemware for my wines and whether buying a more specialized glass (such as one designed for Riesling or Sangiovese) will improve my tasting experience. Overall, I do subscribe to the view that the best glasses provide sufficient space in the bowl for the wine to “breathe” and have a rim that is both thin and tapered (such as those made from crystal instead of glass) so that the wine flows smoothly into the mouth. I once attended a Riedel tasting seminar that contrasted various glass shapes and thicknesses by pouring the same varietal wine into multiple glasses. I must admit that I was won over by the results. However, the biggest difference I found in tasting was between the “joker” glasses (small, non-crystal, clunky glass or tumbler) and generous sized crystal stems. The subtleties between the varietal-designed glasses were much more subtle. Unless one has extensive storage space, I wouldn’t invest in more than four basic styles. Below are some general style descriptors and a selection of my favorite wines that could pair with each category:
Tall Champagne flute – Tall flutes are better than coupes or saucer-shaped glasses at streamlining your bubbles, although a “tulip” shaped stem will provide additional focus and space for the aromas to gather.
1997 Laurent-Perrier - Grand Siecle Cuvee Alexandra Rose $99
1996 Pol Roger - Cuvee Sir Winston Churchill $159
Narrow white wine glass – A narrow Sauvignon Blanc styled glass will focus the aromas at the top of the glass. Since this glass has less surface area than a red wine glass, it allows less air to circulate around the glass, keeping the wine cooler. This style is also good for Riesling and other acidic whites.
2006 Cotat, Pascal - Sancerre Chavignol Reserve des Mont Damnes $47
2005 Pichler, F X - Riesling Durnsteiner Kellerberg Smaragd $66
Burgundy-style goblet – The larger bowl of this glass is important for Pinot Noir, Grenache and full-bodied Chardonnay to accumulate its aromas as well as expand in flavor as it enters your mouth. The glass directs the wine to the tip of the tongue.
2005 Drouhin, Joseph - Meursault Les Perrieres 1er Cru $71.95
1998 Mortet, Denis - Gevrey Chambertin Combe du Dessus 1er Cru $69
Bordeaux-style wine glass – This glass is tall with a wide bowl so that it directs the wine to the back of the mouth. This style is best for medium to full-bodied red wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sangiovese, Syrah, Petite Sirah, and Zinfandel.
1995 Guigal, E - Cote-Rotie Chateau d'Ampuis $75
2000 Cos d'Estournel $139
In addition to breathing and effects on the palate, the four styles of glasses described above follow a progression of light to more full-bodied varietals, and also reflect a relative progression of wines’ serving temperatures. The narrowest glass is meant for chilled Champagne whereas the larger Bordeaux-style glass is meant for “bigger” reds served at room temperature.
In the end I’m not yet ready to break the bank by buying every varietal inspired glass (Riesling stemware will have to wait), but I’ve been convinced that employing glasses that allow appropriate temperature control and breathing for a particular wine style will provide an enhanced drinking experience. What do you think? Select, swirl and sip towards your own opinion…
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