This past Memorial Day weekend, my husband and I ventured up to
Mendocino County to view the famous redwood trees, rocky coastline, and above all, taste the wines from
Anderson Valley. We were not disappointed. Here are a few highlights of the trip. (As always, if you are inspired to purchase any of the wines mentioned below, you can make a “quote request” in
Vinfolio’s wine store if they are not currently in inventory.)
After a leisurely drive up from San Francisco Saturday morning, we made our way up to the Anderson Valley, just two and ½ hours north of the city. This East-West valley is known for growing cool climate grapes (such as Pinot Noir, Riesling, Gewurztraminer) that benefit from the coastal breezes and fog that seep in from the coast. We made our first stop off of Hwy 128 at
Goldeneye Winery located just after the little town of Boonesville. As Duckhorn Vineyards’ sister label, Goldeneye specializes in producing Anderson Valley Pinot Noir. Here we enjoyed their tasting while soaking up sun and serenity of their backyard patio. The “enhanced” tasting included a
Vin Gris de Pinot Noir,
Goldeneye Pinot Noir,
Migration Pinot Noir, as well as two single-vineyard Pinots whose fruit was sourced from the
Confluence and
Narrows Vineyards. The rosé was dry and particularly refreshing showing hints of strawberry and raspberry. Of the Pinot Noirs, our favorite was their flagship, the
2004 Goldeneye Anderson Valley Pinot Noir. Its taste was the most well-balanced incorporating both earthy notes as well as dark berry flavors such as blackberry and blueberry, and it was very reasonably priced.
Later that afternoon we tried the sparkling wines at
Scharffenberger Cellars and
Roederer Estate. At Roederer, it was particularly interesting to compare their
non-vintage cuvee in both 750 ml and magnum format. The magnum revealed a more creamy palate and a longer length than the same wine from the 750 ml. One other interesting winery was
Greenwood Ridge Vineyards whose yurt-like tasting building was decorated with ribbons awarded from numerous county fairs. We were charmed by
Greenwood’s 2006 Late Harvest White Riesling whose 18% residual sugar necessitates that its apricot, honeyed nectar be consumed in small sips.
That evening, after arriving in the scenic, coastal town of Mendocino, we dined at
Café Beajolais, a local French restaurant situated in what started as a Victorian Farmhouse in 1893. Here we took a break from the Anderson Valley vineyards and started the meal with a half bottle of
2005 Champaut Sancerre Les Pierres (Loire, France). This clean and refreshing white was a lovely complement to a smoky spinach salad garnished with tomato, goat cheese and bacon. We also loved their
2005 Elk Cove Mt. Richmond Pinot Noir from Willamette Valley, Oregon. This proved a great pair to my Columbia River Sturgeon Fillet that was bathed in a truffle emulsion sauce and wild mushrooms. This Burgundian style pinot bridged the flavors of earth and sea as it enhanced the earthy characteristics of the sauce and as well as the texture of the fish. Finally, the
Navarro’s Cluster Select Late Harvest White Riesling brought a sweet finish to our home-style dessert of gingerbread and peaches.
At the start of Sunday’s glorious sunny morning, we popped into
Husch Vineyards, which has the
distinction of being the oldest winery in the Anderson Valley and the first to plant Pinot Noir grapes in that area. We couldn’t stay long in their tasting room (an old converted pony barn) as we had a scheduled tour at
Navarro Vineyards just down the street. Along our tour, we learned the owners, Ted Bennett and Deborah Cahn, chose the location in 1972 because they felt it resembled the terroir in Alsace. Our guide explained that just 10% of the property was planted and that they had to replant certain vineyards changing the root stock to protect it from phylloxera. In addition to tasting their large range of wines (the Pinot Noir and dessert Muscat were my favorites), we enjoyed meeting the vineyard animals including two llamas, a flock of chickens, and several goats, all of which help to maintain the grounds. Our last stop before exploring the coast was at
Handley Cellars, a small family run winery that impressed us with their
2005 Cole Ranch Riesling (by the cleanness of flavor) and
2004 Redwood Valley Syrah (because of its richness and depth of fruit).
After a full day, we dined that evening at the
Albion River Inn whose restaurant offers a spectacular coastal view and live piano music. We reveled in the long sunset hours, again taking a break from the local wines, and enjoying a
2004 Dauvissat-Camus Chablis La Forest 1er Cru. The wine had a flinty, mineral nose and citrus and stones on the palate. It revealed its caliber by its long, vibrant finish. We agreed that it was outstanding and savored its last drops!
Monday was our day to drive home, but we did find time to visit two small wineries on the way out. The first stop was at
Meyer Family Cellars, whose family is primarily known for their Silver Oak Winery in Napa Valley. This newer property, however, is located in the Yorkville Highlands appellation, a place where Meyer Family’s co-winemakers, Matt and Karen Meyer, believe the climate is ideal for growing Syrah grapes. The days are warm but the cool nights lock in the grapes’ acidity. Karen (Matt’s wife from Perth, Australia) served us their
Sonoma and
Mendocino Syrahs as well as their
Syrah Port. The port’s rich sweetness was a natural pair with bits of dark chocolate. Karen also explained that the winery will soon re-release their famous Bonny Vineyard Cabernet (from Napa’s Oakville AVA) under the Meyer Family label.
Our last stop of the trip was at
Maple Creek Winery, the home of the Artevino label reflecting the owners’, Tom Rodrigues and Linda Stutz, passion for both art and wine. This winery produces a wide variety of wines at reasonable prices. We loved their Sauvignon Blanc style
2006 Buckin' Blanco Chardonnay and agreed that its crisp tropical flavors would pair fabulously with grilled shrimp or crab cakes at a summer barbeque.
All in all, we highly recommend visiting Mendocino’s wine country with its low-key atmosphere and beautiful scenery. The wines typically showed steely acidity and concentrated fruit. It is a place to breathe and savor the freshness of nature.