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2004 Clos des Brusquières Châteauneuf du Pape, $35

We cracked open a bottle of this lovely Châteauneuf at our staff meeting last week. I was eager to try it as I’ve been a purchaser of Brusquières for several years on and off. One thing I’ve always enjoyed is that they continue to live by the ‘old ways’ and always deliver a more traditional CDP—such as the ones that used to poor freely at so many cafés both in France and elsewhere. Well, the Châteauneuf appellation has out-priced that culture now as far as “house wines” go. And if you’re still receiving the generous glass ‘top-off’ that a patron and his pretty companion occasionally receives (in France only if the waiter is in a particularly good mood), it’s likely a simple Cotes-du-Rhone.

This wine works like other café classics (such as the reds of the Loire), in that it stays light-enough on its feet while delivering great flavor impact. It’s a bright, mid-deep cherry color with just a touch of boysenberry-jam on the nose. The Grenache is classically vibrant straw-cherry-raspberry and the spices are light and easy. There is just enough herb and menthol on the mid-palate to make it slurpable, but serious enough to carry though to a nice clean finish. In the end, the wine brings more cassis, mineral and subtle licorice to the glass. Clos des Brusquières has made a traditional wine in an emblematic vintage that is utterly food-flexible. It is an excellent counterpart to either the grill or lighter fare that you might prefer in the summer heat.

One of the great things about whites like these is that they are extremely versatile. They go with a range or food preparations and are perfect for just casual drinking. Chablis, for example, begs for another sip—kind of like a palate-teaser. But it is these two facets combined, that demonstrate the complete picture of their versatility: they’re great segue wines. Start with them as you would a cocktail, and bring them to the table. This way you can experience your own similar, fanciful musing: they remind me of sitting on the patio after setting the picnic table, cleaning the grill and waiting for the last “clank” of serving spoon against the dinner plate. The smells of the grill and a wine-butter-garlic bouquet is wafting through the summer breeze.  As the sun leisurely lowers itself behind the tree line, everything is just a bit cooler, calmer. Or perhaps that’s just the wine I’m sipping, playing its part.   

2001 Henri Boillot Saint Romain, $36
Slightly toasty, matchstick nose. Elegant, yet silky. Palate shows very nice pear and cooked Macintosh apple, with a dense core. Tasting this wine is a well-priced way to pique your interest towards more of Boillot’s high-end pedigree.

2005 Marc Colin Meursault Les Narvaux, $43
Colin is more known for Chassagne, so here’s a great price on Narvaux, probably the next appellation to be 1er cru. A bit creamier, with lemon accents and other ‘less acidic’ orchard fruit. Good concentration through the vibrant finish.

2005 Long-Depaquit Chablis Les Vaillons 1er Cru, $25
Nicely forward for such young Chablis. That and a heftier mid-palate make it utterly drinkable now. The acid lifts up on the finish with lemongrass and triple-sec. I would suggest that this is a top 10 value at Vinfolio.

2003 Raveneau Chablis Les Forets 1er Cru, $49
A great price having just gone on sale, the wine from this widely-collected producer is still classic Raveneau—a nose that reminds me of a mojito; a mineral frame with a textured, supple middle palate. The warmer vintage gives it a bit more forward nature and more stuffing. It’s all there though, along with a bit of classic-Chablis flint on the finish.

So you want to plan a trip to wine country but you’re tired of Napa Valley – the back up of cars starts at Yountville, throngs of people at every tasting room, same varietals that become indistinguishable after the fourth winery and the high price of tasting at some of the top producers – no thanks.

We were a group of five, regular consumers with very different tastes in wine.  We decided to try to take the stress out of visiting wine country, and with a little pre-planning, we had one of the best days we could remember (and it wasn’t because we “over-sampled” on the previous trips). Here is why:

1. Transportation - the best way for all of us to enjoy the day was to have someone else drive so we hired a limo.  Ok, that is not going to be an option for everyone but give it some thought and do some research on other options like shuttle buses or smaller group tours outside of Napa.  If you have a friend willing to drive (sans drinking), even better.
2. Itinerary – many people just like to “wing it” when they are in wine country, but having a few pre-planned stops in nearby appellations is going to give you a chance to see more than going up one road and stopping every 20 feet.  Having a scheduled appointment for a tasting or a tour (most wineries have web sites with all the info) will give you a starting or an ending point. Unless you want to turn your day into a pub crawl, I recommend visiting no more than 3-4 wineries.
3. Wineries – Sonoma was the best choice to avoid the heavy weekend Napa crowds and since one person had a specific request to visit a Pinot Noir producer in the Russian River area, I looked for other small producers in the Dry Creek area who focused on other varietals.  Since we would head south to Carneros by day’s end, we found a winery just north of Sonoma (in Bennett Valley) that had a beautiful outdoor terrace overlooking their lavender fields.  Try to get some recommendations from your local wine retailer if you want to make a list of places to research before you go.
4. Tasting – while there are very few places that offer free tastings, Sonoma’s appellations tend to be cheaper ($5 for 5-6 wines) and offer more variety of (not just chard, merlot and cab).  You don’t have to get out your wine journal; rather, use the winery tasting list to note basic thoughts and whether it is worth purchasing.  Also, if you like the wines and engage the staff by asking questions, they sometimes bring out bottles that are not on the tasting menu. You may get to try something really special.

Unti Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley

Talk about a gem, we loved this place!  Mick and Linda Unti have taken on the family vineyard started by Mick’s father George.  They grow some of the more recognizable varietals in the Dry Creek area, but they are known for their Grenache and Barbera, as well other Mediterranean varietals that are perfectly suited to the climate.  They even have several winemaker fans of their Grenache and Syrah: Novy, Renard, and Ogden Olson make their own Unti Vineyard cuvées.

The first thing you notice is the modest and functional tasting room and storage area (ageing vats and all), and then their friendly staff takes you through their current wine selection (free!).  We were lucky enough to taste and buy some of their Rosé of Grenache – a delicate, well structured rosé with hints of strawberry, finishing with a crisp, fresh finish. This beautifully made wine could rival some of the best Provencal rosés.  Perhaps it has something to do with the fact that their winemaker, Sébastien Pochan, is from Southern France.

We also tried the Barbera, Grenache, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Syrah, Segromigno and Rhone blend.  All the wines were very well balanced and flavorful.  The Barbera was juicy, youthful and delicious, while the Grenache had extra layers on the nose and a palate whose complexity reminded me of Chateaneuf.  The Petite Sirah and Syrah showed good fruit, tannin and an earthy quality that everyone thought worked well together.  Each wine had very unique characteristics.  The Grenache, Barbera and Petite Sirah tied for the most “thumbs up” - 5 out of 5 for each.  The Rosé and the Zinfandel ran a close second.

It is pretty clear that the folks at Unti are all about growing the best possible grapes and making really good wine.

Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery, Russian River Valley 

This stop was a special request for one member of the group.  Perched atop a hill, the tasting room has a panoramic view of the Russian River Valley.  The winery has a long history of making Pinot Noir from some of the most well known vineyards in the area – Rochioli and Allen.  They have branched out to Cabernet and Zinfandel, but their strengths lie with Pinot and Chardonnay.

This tasting room was a little more up-market and a bit busier, but the ambiance was still relaxing, not noisy or overcrowded.  There was plenty of staff on hand to offer tasting options: a Premier Tasting ($10) featuring single vineyard Pinot, Chard and Cab, or their Current Releases ($5) that included main varietals plus Zinfandel and Sauvignon Blanc. 

We were all very impressed with the 2004 Chardonnay from the Rochioli-Allen Vineyards – it was a pretty and delicate with subtle notes of pear, honeysuckle, mineral and oak – overall an elegant wine.  They also had a 2006 Sonoma County/Redwood Ranch Sauvignon Blanc with bright citrus fruit and crisp acidity.

As usual, the Pinot Noir showed well with the 2004 Starr Ridge Vineyard as our favorite – ripe cherry fruit, a little bit of earth and a smooth finish.  The 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County was balanced, but delicate on the fruit and tannin.  The Zinfandel was the least favorite of the group lacking flavor and balance.  The Rochioli-Allen vineyard Chard was the clear winner with 5 thumbs up with the Sauvignon Blanc and the Pinot coming in a close second with 4 thumbs up each.

After the tasting we sat outside to enjoy the great weather and beautiful view. We could see why this was a popular stop.

Matanzas Creek Winery, Bennett Valley

After a quick lunch and tour of the town of Healdsburg, we headed toward Bennett Valley located in the northern part Sonoma Valley.  The winery is set back from the road, closer to the hills and flanked by beautiful lavender gardens.  You really get a relaxed feeling coming into the winery by its nice view overlooking the valley and gardens.  While Gary Farrell had a more refined tasting room, Matanzas Creek made you feel right at home.  The room was modest and while they sold their own lavender-based products, you got the feeling they were more focused on the wine than the marketing.

I had heard good things about the wines – well made, versatile and crowd pleasing.  They are known for their Merlot, but the whites showed well.  We all chose the basic tasting ($5) to be able to try the most varietals – Sauvignon Blanc, Chard, Rosé, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.   The NV Rosé – a blend of Merlot and Syrah, was interesting but a little too soft.  I liked the 2005 Sauvignon Blanc – it was rich with fresh melon flavors.  The 2005 Chardonnay Sonoma Valley was good – medium weight with smoke, vanilla and nice balance between fruit and acidity.

The 2005 Merlot Bennett Valley, their signature wine, had lots of blueberry and smoke on the nose with a soft mid-palate and good finish – a very versatile wine with good character.  We all gave it a thumbs up and would recommend it.  As it was the end of the tasting day (3:30), we got the chance to taste a few other wines that weren’t on the list.  The 2001 Jackson Park Merlot was the surprise hit, whose nose offered a unique combination of cassis, earth, black olive, saddle leather and a bit more chew that would make the wine a great match for grilled lamb.  We gave it 5 thumbs up along with the Bennet Valley Merlot.  The Chardonnay came in second and the rest a split decision.

If you are looking for a more laid-back winery without the pretension of some of the more popular places in Russian River, this is a great stop.

 

On Saturday, June 9th I attended the fourth annual Golden Glass tasting event at the Fort Mason Herbst Pavilion in San Francisco.  This lively wine tasting event featured seventy Italian producers showcasing 130 Italian indigenous & regional wines, complimented by culinary delights from leading Bay Area restaurateurs and food producers. This educational event was a fundraiser for the Slow Food USA organization promoting biodiversity and the campaign to “Buy Fresh, Buy Local.”

Once inside the tasting, my tasting options were quite daunting. I, however, attempted to explore the room according to traditional tasting order beginning with sparkling wines, followed by the whites, and finishing with the reds (a method which was often foiled, of course, by sudden discoveries, but I can say that at least I tried). What I found most refreshing was that most of the producers were unfamiliar to me and thus provided lots of opportunity to try something entirely new. The four tables represented 17 of Italy’s wine regions grouped by the North East, North West, Central, and the South & Islands.

After considerable tasting, the following wines were my noted favorites:

• 2006 Pedres Vermentino di Gallura Jaldinu (Sardegna) – A crisp white that refreshes the palate and would a great starter to a summer meal. A good value too!
• 2005 Cantine Gran Furor Ravello Bianco (Campania) – Perhaps I am biased because I honeymooned on the Amalfi Coast, but this local blend of 60% Falanghina and 40% Biancolella really caught my notice. It was both elegant and simple, displaying flavors of citrus, green apple and almond.
• 2001 Fornacina Brunello Di Montalcino Riserva (Toscana) – In additional to the riserva, their regular Brunello was also excellent. Both wines showed classic Tuscan Sangiovese characteristics including dark cherry fruit, earthy tones and a long finish. The riserva had me coming back for more.
• 2001 Castello del Terriccio Lupicaia (Toscana) – This classy Supertuscan combined Terriccio’s best Cabernet and Merlot grapes to create a high caliber blend. The sensual, velvety texture of wine on the palate was riveting as well as the rich, dark berry fruit. The flavors here justify the existence of “cult” wines.
• 2004 Oasi degli Angeli Kurni (Marche) – This was an ultra dark, dense red wine made from old vine Montepulciano grapes grown in the Marche region. The flavors were more complex than expected from what is often considered a “rustic” grape. I was impressed by the wine’s concentration and amused by the name “Angel’s Oasis.”
• 2001 Milziade Antano Sagrantino di Montefalco “Colleallodole” (Umbria) – What first caught my attention was the drama of two Italian men pouring their dark wine through multiple decanters to make the flavors just right.  This kind of aeration makes sense since Sagrantino is known as one of the most tannic varieties found anywhere in the world. When finally able to take my first sip, I knew that I had found something special. The flavors were complex with definite blue chip appeal and a tannic structure to allow for long aging.

It would be remiss to ignore the alluring flavors from the local restaurants. These three were my most memorable treats:

• Kuleto’s warm, freshly made mozzarella balls drizzled in olive oil, with a salt garnish. – Wow, this cheese just melted in your mouth! This bite-sized starter was definitely a crowd pleaser, reminding me of the power of simple, but authentic Italian cuisine.
• A16’s roasted pork – A perfect pair with the red wines and scrumptious in its flavor.
• Quince’s peach soup – This dessert-like “soup” had the purest fruit flavor that I have ever tasted. It was the perfect palate cleanser and an excellent example of high quality flavor extracted from local fruit.

In conclusion, despite finding quality in all parts of the tasting, my favorite wines came from Italy’s central and southern zones - a kudos to the upcoming South! Furthermore, if after reading these wine reviews, you wish to continue your exploration of Italian wines, you can try some of the comparable selections I have chosen from Vinfolio’s inventory (by regions central to south):

Toscana
    2001 Banfi - Brunello di Montalcino ($50)
    2001 Poderina - Brunello di Montalcino Poggio Banale ($95)
    1990 Antinori – Tignanello ($199)
    2004 Brancaia - Il Blu ($72)
Umbria
    1998 Caprai, Arnaldo - Sagrantino di Montefalco 25 Anni ($74)
    2001 Fiorita Lamborghini – Campoleone ($49)
Lazio
    2005 Monastero Suore Cistercensi – Coenobium ($15)
    1998 Falesco – Montiano ($49)
Abruzzo
    2003 Ronchi, Umani - Montepulciano D'Abruzzo Jorio ($15)
Campania
    2001 Feudi di San Gregorio – Serpico ($79)
    2001 Montevetrano ($82)
Basilicata
    2003 Notaio - Rosato di Aglianico del Vulture Il Rogito ($17)

We at Vinfolio find ourselves talking about our wine experiences quite often, and one question returns to me...why don't people drink more Champagne? By and large people only buy Champagne for special occasions, as if our day to day lives aren't worth celebrating.

May I extrapolate that people have nothing to celebrate?

I have a friend whose wine collection contains of 3,000+ bottles of Champagne. His portfolio taught us both a lot about Champagne’s versatility. Over the course of two years we drank Champagne with everything, and I discovered a strong affection for the selections from Egly-Ouriet. Vinfolio currently features their NV Brut Les Vignes de Vrigny 1er Cru ($54) and NV Brut Tradition ($54).

Egly-Ouriet’s wines hail from the region of Ambonnay, just Northeast of Champagne, from only 8 hectares (19 acres) of Grand Cru fruit.  It is amazing that these wines are still very affordable. His vines age from 30-50 years and sit on their yeasts for a minimum of 3 years. During the aging period, the process known as autolysis occurs where the dead yeast cells (or lees) from the secondary fermentation release complex flavor compounds in the wine creating desirable toasty, yeasty, biscuit-like flavors. These flavors are what define the rich style and subtlety of my favorite bubbles. And what’s even more— Egly-Ouriet wines are also unfiltered, a practice not the norm for Champagne.

So, I ask again, can we find something in our daily meanderings to celebrate?

With the passing of Memorial Day, the outdoor barbecue season is in full swing. Spark up the grill and let’s start grilling! Summer outdoor parties demand food friendly wines such as crisp light-bodied whites, savory rosés and hearty, but fruity new-world reds. However, don’t forget one of the most versatile categories, Champagne. As a nation, we tend to think of the precious ‘Méthode Champenoise’ for sacred ceremonies, milestone celebrations and exclusive dinner parties, but there is no better time to experience small production Champagne. The wines from this band of family growers are now coming to the states in record numbers.

Sure you can spring for a ‘Grande Marque’ like Cristal or Dom Perignon, but it can set you back a few bucks. Labels aren’t everything when you’re hosting friends and family for a summer gathering. Our site consistently features older vintages of these luxury cuvées and sometimes in larger formats. However, don’t overlook the savvy deals found in the ‘Single-Grower’ category. In most cases, these estates have been family owned for a few centuries and historically have sold top rated premier and grand cru grapes to the larger luxury houses. Today, many of these houses are featured by the glass at some of the most touted restaurants and cafés in America. More often than not, these unsung wonders retail between $35.00 and $75.00. You’re not paying for a commercial brand here, but what’s in the bottle. In more instances than not, these houses stress an assemblage of highly rated premier and grand cru rated fruit, which is typically estate owned.

Browse through the site and you will find unknown gems like Chartogne-Taillet, Egly-Ouriet, Jean Vesselle, Alain Soutiran and Pierre Gimonnet to name a few. These Champagnes don’t need a special occasion or ceremony to toast with, but just the right food to pair with to make for a memorable palate experience. Below you will find some highlights of the ‘Single-Grower’ portfolio in which the importance of terroir (sense of place) and a whole lot of complexity meet.

1999 Chartogne-Taillet “Cuvée Fiacre” Brut, Merfy        $58.00

Noted Champagne Expert and author, Tom Stevenson raves about the “Cuvée Fiacre” and I tend to agree. A blend of old-vine Chardonnay (60%) & Pinot Noir (40%) that is expressive of jasmine and orange blossom on the nose followed by plenty of mineralized pear and quince. The finish sings with a contrast of dazzling acidity and notes of talc n’ chalk. The 1999 has just started to open up to become a divine accompaniment for some cracked crab or shrimp toast.

NV Egly-Ouriet Brut Tradition, Ambonnay        $54.00

The name ‘Egly’ doesn’t conjure a glorious image, but close you eyes and taste any of their bottlings and you will instantly understand why avid Champagne lovers stock their cellars with Egly Ouriet by the case. Francis Egly is at the top of the small grower elite, with his estate located in the heart of the Côte de Noirs. He specifically owns grand cru vineyards in Bouzy, Verzenay and Ambonnay. The house has claim to some of the finest Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier in the appellation. His non-vintage is 100% grand cru sourced from 35 to 40-year-old vines, typically two thirds Pinot Noir and one third Chardonnay. The Pinot really resonates through the mouth conjuring flavor profiles of raspberries, cranberries, lime zest and roses. Not many non-vintage have this long of a finish. How about pulling out the Pork butt from the smoker for pull pork sandwiches or perhaps a spicy Cuban Pork sandwich?  

NV Jean Vesselle Rosé Saignée Brut, Bouzy         $40.00

Delphine Vesselle has taken over the helm with tremendous success, considering her father, Jean Vesselle passed away in 1996. The 300 year old estate is located in the village of Bouzy, most famous for its Pinot Noir. I personally crave for Vesselle Rosé every chance I get. A wonderful hue and pinpoint bubbles ignites the senses. A noble Champagne indeed, with the body and palate of a red wine. Wildflowers with luscious wild strawberries and cherries will please any Pinot lover. Can we get some wild salmon on the grill? Please!!

2000 Alain Soutiran Brut Millesime, Ambonnay        $39.00

Maison Alain Soutiran is another Ambonnay house that is known for Pinot Noir. One of only 17 houses granted grand cru status. Back in the 1970s, Alain Soutiran pulled the family grapes out of the huge local cooperative to begin fashioning one of the region’s full-bodied Champagnes, showcasing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from 35 to 40 year old vines. His wine is a delicate balance between refinement, power and finesse. The 2000 Grand Cru Brut struts harmonious layers of apple, quince, candied lemon and toasty yeast flavors, all leading to a super bone-dry finish. This effort would work wonders with a firm and meaty grilled white fish like Mahi Mahi or Chilean Sea Bass napped with a spicy fruit salsa or Thai spice rub.

As we’re only a ½ mile from the ballpark that the SF Giants call home I can almost hear the chant "get 'em while they’re hot!" That echoes here in this pitch of 10 wines that are practically a steal. OK, enough baseball analogy, but truly their numbers are dwindling and it’s the last chance to buy them. I’m sure they’ll be a hit. Your friends will comment that you’ve hit a home run with your picks! …I’m done now. We’ll see how it goes but hopefully, this will be a regular blog entry—to call attention to tasty bin-ends.

2005 Taille aux Loups Montlouis Sec Dix Arpents, $17

Very small production Chenin Blanc from the Loire with exotic fruit notes of persimmon and date. Very precise wine has a mineral-laden influence with restraint and elegance throughout the dry finish. 

2005 Gautier Vouvray Cuvee Argilex, $15
 
Buy it along with the Montlouis above for an interesting contrast and example of the most austere representation of Chenin. If it’s already super-hot where you are, or if you’re anticipating any summer picnics at the beach, here’s your wine.

 

2005 Renard Viognier, $24

My favorite at the Rhone Rangers tasting here in SF. I’ve been a Bayard Fox fan for a while—a customer at my previous shop. Doug Wilder likes the wine too: “The Viognier from Sonoma County is new to me and shows admirable qualities. Honeysuckle nose, white peach and velvet smooth citrus and licorice on the palate. The finish is buttery and long lasting with hints of tropical fruits.”

2005 Vacheron Sancerre, $26 or $14 in 375ml

OK, another Loire. Call it a kick that I’m on but we’re talking great, clean wines of excellent value in these parts. Vibrant, green-fruit, and rhubarb bouquet with zest, sugared-grapefruit and mixed citrus comes through on the palate. Well-crafted wine offers a balancing act finish of pepper, limes and lemongrass.

2005 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese Trocken, $22

This is a dry Riesling from my favorite value producer top to bottom in the 2005 vintage. The wine has been showing as well as several Mosels nearly twice the price. Delineation is key here.

 

2005 Donnhoff Oberhauser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett, $27

If Selbach-Oster is my favorite-priced producer, this is my favorite-priced wine in this vintage. It has everything of a wine that would cost $40 plus.

 

2004 Roessler Chardonnay Alder Springs Emerald Pond Block, $38

Subtle nose unfolds to a supple feel despite mineral and herbs. The wine opens to bacon-wrapped melon and a citrus finish. A great crossover from appetizer to main course.

 

2002 Long-Depaquit Chablis Vaudesir, $47

Chablis that is one of the best balancing acts between bracing, focused fruit from one of the richest sides of Chablis. Just a bit spicy, despite its lengthy finish, the Vaudesir will allow you to enjoy even oily foods without being too intense or flinty. This is a Chablis drinker’s Chablis and a Grand Cru value.

 

2005 Conreria d'Scala dei Les Brugueres, $26

Grenache Blanca or Garnacha Blanca from 100+ year old vines. I’ve bought this wine in the last few vintages. It continues to delight with white peach fattening toward a finish of butter-sautéed apples and pears. It’s a conversation piece with intriguing flavors, texture and a light, rose-colored hue.

 

2004 Venica & Venica Ronco delle Cime, $27

Cyrille Hanson says it best, with my stamp of agreement for sure: “One of the greatest indigenous white grapes in Friuli, Tocai Friulano is still somewhat of an unknown to many white wine lovers…This is a single-vineyard production that offers a polished, yet concentrated palate, of golden apple, pear and fig cross-hatched with a brilliant acidity that carries the flavors on a long-distance trip through your mouth. For those who enjoy the occasional exotic mouthful, this will be your new wine mistress.” In less eloquent terms, this is the mistress that can dress for whatever occasion the evening dictates.

This past Memorial Day weekend, my husband and I ventured up to Mendocino County to view the famous redwood trees, rocky coastline, and above all, taste the wines from Anderson Valley. We were not disappointed. Here are a few highlights of the trip. (As always, if you are inspired to purchase any of the wines mentioned below, you can make a “quote request” in Vinfolio’s wine store if they are not currently in inventory.)

After a leisurely drive up from San Francisco Saturday morning, we made our way up to the Anderson Valley, just two and ½ hours north of the city. This East-West valley is known for growing cool climate grapes (such as Pinot Noir, Riesling, Gewurztraminer) that benefit from the coastal breezes and fog that seep in from the coast. We made our first stop off of Hwy 128 at Goldeneye Winery located just after the little town of Boonesville. As Duckhorn Vineyards’ sister label, Goldeneye specializes in producing Anderson Valley Pinot Noir. Here we enjoyed their tasting while soaking up sun and serenity of their backyard patio. The “enhanced” tasting included a Vin Gris de Pinot Noir, Goldeneye Pinot Noir, Migration Pinot Noir, as well as two single-vineyard Pinots whose fruit was sourced from the Confluence and Narrows Vineyards.  The rosé was dry and particularly refreshing showing hints of strawberry and raspberry. Of the Pinot Noirs, our favorite was their flagship, the 2004 Goldeneye Anderson Valley Pinot Noir.  Its taste was the most well-balanced incorporating both earthy notes as well as dark berry flavors such as blackberry and blueberry, and it was very reasonably priced.

Later that afternoon we tried the sparkling wines at Scharffenberger Cellars and Roederer Estate. At Roederer, it was particularly interesting to compare their non-vintage cuvee in both 750 ml and magnum format. The magnum revealed a more creamy palate and a longer length than the same wine from the 750 ml. One other interesting winery was Greenwood Ridge Vineyards whose yurt-like tasting building was decorated with ribbons awarded from numerous county fairs. We were charmed by Greenwood’s 2006 Late Harvest White Riesling whose 18% residual sugar necessitates that its apricot, honeyed nectar be consumed in small sips.

That evening, after arriving in the scenic, coastal town of Mendocino, we dined at Café Beajolais, a local French restaurant situated in what started as a Victorian Farmhouse in 1893. Here we took a break from the Anderson Valley vineyards and started the meal with a half bottle of 2005 Champaut Sancerre Les Pierres (Loire, France). This clean and refreshing white was a lovely complement to a smoky spinach salad garnished with tomato, goat cheese and bacon. We also loved their 2005 Elk Cove Mt. Richmond Pinot Noir from Willamette Valley, Oregon. This proved a great pair to my Columbia River Sturgeon Fillet that was bathed in a truffle emulsion sauce and wild mushrooms. This Burgundian style pinot bridged the flavors of earth and sea as it enhanced the earthy characteristics of the sauce and as well as the texture of the fish. Finally, the Navarro’s Cluster Select Late Harvest White Riesling brought a sweet finish to our home-style dessert of gingerbread and peaches.

At the start of Sunday’s glorious sunny morning, we popped into Husch Vineyards, which has the distinction of being the oldest winery in the Anderson Valley and the first to plant Pinot Noir grapes in that area. We couldn’t stay long in their tasting room (an old converted pony barn) as we had a scheduled tour at Navarro Vineyards just down the street. Along our tour, we learned the owners, Ted Bennett and Deborah Cahn, chose the location in 1972 because they felt it resembled the terroir in Alsace. Our guide explained that just 10% of the property was planted and that they had to replant certain vineyards changing the root stock to protect it from phylloxera. In addition to tasting their large range of wines (the Pinot Noir and dessert Muscat were my favorites), we enjoyed meeting the vineyard animals including two llamas, a flock of chickens, and several goats, all of which help to maintain the grounds. Our last stop before exploring the coast was at Handley Cellars, a small family run winery that impressed us with their 2005 Cole Ranch Riesling (by the cleanness of flavor) and 2004 Redwood Valley Syrah (because of its richness and depth of fruit).

After a full day, we dined that evening at the Albion River Inn whose restaurant offers a spectacular coastal view and live piano music. We reveled in the long sunset hours, again taking a break from the local wines, and enjoying a 2004 Dauvissat-Camus Chablis La Forest 1er Cru. The wine had a flinty, mineral nose and citrus and stones on the palate. It revealed its caliber by its long, vibrant finish. We agreed that it was outstanding and savored its last drops!

Monday was our day to drive home, but we did find time to visit two small wineries on the way out. The first stop was at Meyer Family Cellars, whose family is primarily known for their Silver Oak Winery in Napa Valley. This newer property, however, is located in the Yorkville Highlands appellation, a place where Meyer Family’s co-winemakers, Matt and Karen Meyer, believe the climate is ideal for growing Syrah grapes. The days are warm but the cool nights lock in the grapes’ acidity. Karen (Matt’s wife from Perth, Australia) served us their Sonoma and Mendocino Syrahs as well as their Syrah Port. The port’s rich sweetness was a natural pair with bits of dark chocolate. Karen also explained that the winery will soon re-release their famous Bonny Vineyard Cabernet (from Napa’s Oakville AVA) under the Meyer Family label.

Our last stop of the trip was at Maple Creek Winery, the home of the Artevino label reflecting the owners’, Tom Rodrigues and Linda Stutz, passion for both art and wine. This winery produces a wide variety of wines at reasonable prices. We loved their Sauvignon Blanc style 2006 Buckin' Blanco Chardonnay and agreed that its crisp tropical flavors would pair fabulously with grilled shrimp or crab cakes at a summer barbeque.  

All in all, we highly recommend visiting Mendocino’s wine country with its low-key atmosphere and beautiful scenery. The wines typically showed steely acidity and concentrated fruit. It is a place to breathe and savor the freshness of nature.