The 1980's in Napa Valley were exciting times with the emergence of powerhouse labels like Caymus, Phelps, Montelena and Cardinale repeatedly finishing in the upper echelon of critical and consumer acclaim. However it was another winery that really kicked off the experience of being there the day the wine was released that made consumers flock to the valley in what can only be described as a pilgrimage. The winery was Silver Oak and twice a year, in February and again in August they would release their wines and if you happened to be there on the day it was released you could buy a precious case and a magnum or two. Silver Oak's Ray Duncan and Justin Meyer created one of the most recognized brands in the wine world making three bottlings; Alexander Valley (40000 cases), Napa Valley (12000 cases) and the extremly limited Bonny's Vineyard (100 -200 cases). When I first became involved in the wine business in the early 1990's, my store received about 20 times more of the other wines compared to Bonny's. What made the Bonny's so special was it was harvested from a small 3+ acre plot owned by Justin and Bonny Meyer just across the street from Silver Oak. Between 1979 and 1991 Silver Oak offered this as a single designated source after which it was blended into the Napa Valley bottling. Following Justin's sale of his share of Silver Oak in February 2001 and his death in August of the following year allowed Bonny and her son Matt the opportunity to bring back a Napa Valley icon on their own terms.
2003 is the premiere release of Meyer Family Cellars Bonny's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. The vines replanted in 1999 have benefitted from the lessons learned that some of the early examples from the vineyard had a green quality that resulted from the perennial shade inflicted on the western edge running along a creek. New orientation and trellising has eliminated that now. Everything else is pretty much the same as Justin intended it to be a generation ago. I had the pleasure of visting with Bonny Meyer at her home last week where I was honored to be the first to taste her premiere release. Bonny and her son Matt, the winemaker spent nearly two hours with me reflecting on the heritage of this site and the traditions they want to continue.
Upon first entering the property through a non-descript gateway along a narrow paved road just west of the Groth Vineyard there is a small rustic sign announcing "You are entering Bonny's Vineyard" suggesting that you are leaving something else behind. I noted this as something I wanted to ask Bonny about since this sign looked like it had been there for quite some time and suggested the person who put the sign there in the first place probably wasn't Bonny.
Bonny's home had originally been a building connected to a dairy enterprise that operated here before vines stretched across the valley. Upon purchasing the property her devoted husband built a small paddock in clover surrounded by a four-rail fence for Bonny to keep a pleasure horse. She and Justin redid the interior of the house in redwood sourced from storage vats of a bygone winery. The heart of the home exudes warmth from the sun streaming through the skylight perched at the peak of the roof.
The first thing I noticed about the Bonny's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon was the vintage turned out to be 2003. Few other producers in my memory besides Silver Oak barrel age for 34 months and further age in bottle another 24. The second thing I noticed following the pouring from decanter was how seamlessly together the wine appeared. Matt explained that the extra time in barrel allows the wine to more completely integrate its elements. No argument on that from me.
Matt continues in another Justin Meyer tradition from Silver Oak of using solely American Oak barrels made from one cooperage defying the conventional wisdom that to make the best Cabernet Sauvignon only French Oak would do. For some connoisseurs, that was something they used to dismiss Silver Oak when the subject came up about what was the most collection worthy wines of the region. What I found in the 2003 Bonny's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon showed me there is little that will get in the way of it finding its way into the cellars of those who appreciate the small production, high quality wines representative of Justin Meyer's style.
2003 Bonny's Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon - Oakville, Premiere release - August 2008
Sourced from the 3.8 acre vineyard block replanted to Clone 8 in 1999, the vines usually yield aabout a ton per acre, miniscule when compared to the average from the valley floor. The nose shows flint, blackberry, currant, floral blossom and cranberry. The palate when given air yields dusty elements with a classic core of black cherry, blackberry and spice. Overall it displays nice balance and integrity. VF 93+
The alcohol of 13.2% harkens to another era when Justin Meyer 's ideal harvest sugar level was 23.5 brix. This should help this wine to continue to age gracefully for 10-20 years.
Upon the conclusion of my tasting i mentioned to Bonny that I noticed the sign on the road entering the vineyard and she told me she would send me the story of the sign later. It turns out that when Bonny had her horse in the 70's she once rode all the way across the valley to Tom and Martha May's property where she was impressed to see a sign announcing "Martha's Vineyard" Upon telling Justin about it she thought little more of it until he called her outside the house one Christmas and presented her with a sign of her own announcing to anyone coming or going that he thought this was a pretty special place. The sign stands where it has always stood, where Justin Meyer once stood, and where his legacy is in good hands.
Vinfolio looks forward to being one of the first retailers in America to offer this wine when released.