Vinfolio.com

Russell From - Herman Story Winery 

Vinfolio Winemaker of the Year 2007 

It has been another whirlwind year for domestic wines at Vinfolio. I have ranged from California’s Santa Ynez Valley to Oregon’s Willamette Valley to discover the top new wines available. Out of 1200 wines tasted, I have gathered 25 (the top 2%) of what I feel are the very best examples for your examination at the end of the year. This is also the time where I announce my Winemaker of the Year 2007. You are accustomed by now to see a short bulleted list of some key statistics for the year. All the answers will be revealed in the morning as to what is on the list but here are some tantalizing clues!

• 1200 – wines tasted in 2007
• 896 – miles between Santa Ynez, CA and Dundee, OR (google.com maps)
• 100 – the number of points for Kenneth Juhasz’s Auteur Shea Vineyard, again
• 95.84 – the average score of The Top 25 list (96.16 in 2006)
• 75%  - the percentage of the list’s Pinot Noir made by Kenneth Juhasz (hmmm)
• 54 – the average price in dollars ot The Top 25 list ($52.92 in 2006)
• 18 – the number of vineyard designated or Estate grown  (dirt matters)
• 9  - the number of Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux styled blends (the top category)
• 8 -  the number of returning wines from last year’s list with new vintages
• 7 – the number of Oregon and Washington wines, (two more than 2006)
• 4 -  the number of Cabernet Sauvignon,/blends from Washington (one in 2006)
• 3 – the number of states included in the list
• 2  - most placements in the list, accomplished by four different wineries
• 1 – varietals making their debut, Grenache from two producers
• 0 – the number of Zinfandel – the most significant varietal missing from the list

Bringing you greatness in 2007

The Top 25 list is intended to recognize the wines that offer what I call “repeatable excellence”. A wine may score 100 points with me but if there is only enough for taking care of the immediate requirement then it usually won’t make the list. I try to identify wines early and if they have potential for inclusion on the list then I will put some into the deepest depths of the warehouse, sometimes as early as the spring. What better time to bring out the best of the year than now?I should mention that a lot of what I do never translates to inclusion in the Top 25 list but they are nevertheless significant milestones on what Vinfolio offers that is so unique.   

• The 2006 Auteur magnums. How do you top offering one 100 point wine in 2006? Commission an exclusive bespoke run of a very limited number of magnum sets from last year’s Vinfolio Winemaker of the Year and be the first to offer them to the world including wines that will not be released for six months (and they are 100 pointers too)

• Laying the groundwork for spring – like a good gardener, I started looking ahead to the opportunities we don’t expect to sprout until early 2008. Trips, tasting and negotiation will come to fruition in March and April. Stay tuned, some of these wines may wind up on next year’s Top 25 list!

• Staying ahead of the curve – This is something we are traditionally successful at; having an opinion on a wine months before it is reviewed elsewhere positions us to influence the market in ways that ultimately benefit our clients. At the end of the day this is why you read The Wilder Side of California. You have come to find value in what I write about, and my commitment to our clients is to inform them on the best wines I experience, every week.

Doug Wilder – Vinfolio Director of California Acquisitions and Sales November 30, 2007 

Shall we get started? 

The Winemaker of the Year for the last two years has been pretty straight-forward formula: Make a 100 point wine and have other high scoring wines in the mix and that is all you need. The last three years have recognized very exciting wines reaching the pinnacle of perfection. NOTE: Winemaker of The Year was reinstituted in 2005. Here is the list of Vinfolio’s Top Wines of the year beginning in 2004, and the winemaker. 

2004 - 2002 Buccella Cabernet Sauvignon 100 points Mark Herold

2005 - 2002 Scholium Project The Sylphs, Chardonnay, 100 points, Abe Schoener

2006 - 2005 Auteur Pinot Noir Shea Vineyard, 100 points, Kenneth Juhasz

2007 – Here is where the Story gets really good

In 2007, I recognize a producer that is on the cusp of exciting things. In 2006, I sampled the 2004 vintage of these wines ( I believe they had been sent to me from the Central Coast) Without much in the way of context or information they seemed to be just below the threshold of what I was looking for and became no more than a footnote in my spreadsheet. In spring of 2007 I had a chance to taste this producer’s wines over several hours with him in my office. What I experienced was the biggest step up in quality and appeal of any producer in my experience from one vintage to another. And the wine that made me swoon?Grenache, of course. Grenache gets my attention when it is vibrant and concentrated. I tasted what I considered my “benchmark” in New York years ago and since then some producers have been close but not as good. That is until someone produced a single vineyard Grenache from Santa Ynez Valley that for me was off the charts.

Russell From, Herman Story Winery – Vinfolio Winemaker of the Year 2007 

Central Coast native Russell From took an unconventional path to arrive here today. An Agriculture major from Cal Poly- San Luis Obispo, he slid into the winery scene nearly by accident. It wasn’t long before he met his eventual business partner, McPrice Myers (of Barrel 27) and discussions of making wine together, and separately began in earnest. Russell’s label, named in honor of his grandfather was launched with the 2001 vintage and immediately captured the attention of Robert Parker.

His first couple vintages were invested mostly paying dues and learning lessons about what worked or not. Once he got involved with the fruit from Larner Vineyard in 2003, his star began to rise, receiving his first 90+ point scores from The Wine Advocate for the Syrah and Grenache from this site.  The 2005 vintage has proved to be the “coming out party” for Herman Story Winery; first there were the Vinfolio reviews from tasting in May:  

2005 Grenache, Larner Vineyard (VF 96)

2005 Syrah, Larner Vineyard (VF 95)

2005 Syrah, White Hawk Vineyard (VF 93)  

These reviews were then largely validated by The Wine Advocate, Issue 172 three months later with a WA 94 for the White Hawk, and identical WA 93 for the pair of Larner reds. Parker referred to the Larner Grenache as “one of the finest made in California” and further identified it as “a potential Grand Cru site”. Please join me in congratulating Russell From of Herman Story Winery on his accomplishment.  

Several years ago I was sitting around the pool with friends sipping on Cosmopolitans on one of those amazing October afternoons, and the subject came up of what we liked most about the rest of the world that had not yet arrived in Napa Valley. On everyones short list was a great Sushi restaurant. Nobody mentioned it would be doubly nice if it was affordable.

Last night I discovered that the answer to both of the questions is here and it is a small restaurant (36 seats) called CC Blue on Main Street in St. Helena. I went there with a friend after work and we walked out stuffed with some of the most delicious nigiri and rolls I have experienced.

We began with Spicy Octopus rolls that were absolutely loaded with flavor followed by a Rainbow Roll consisting of different fish layered together and then a plate of Saba (Mackeral), Maguro (Tuna) and Hotate Gai (Scallop). it wasn't until we shared the Late Night Roll that we both decided we could take no more. About $70 for two with tip. One thing I need to mention is there is nothing nicer than a pot of their rich green tea on a chilly autumn evening.

This is one of my favorite restaurants now and I expect to be back soon. They have local winemaker nights and in December Hugh Davies from Schramsberg will be there. Bubbles with Sushi? Let's go!!!

CC Blue is located at 1148 Main Street in St. Helena. 707.967.9100 www.cc-blue.com

Last month I mentioned there was to be a blind tasting of a dozen 2002 California Cabernet Sauvignon in October at Ch. Brane-Cantenac, in Margaux. Click here for participating wineries.

The tasting was organized by The Vintners Club and the tasters included

May-Elaine de Lencquesaing, former owner of Ch. Picon-Lalande, Hubert de Brouard of Ch. Angelus, Kees Van Leeuwen of Ch. Cheval Blanc, Eric d;Aramon of Ch. Figeac and Lilian Barton of Ch. Leoville Barton

The results are now in.

1. Rocca

2. Caymus Special Selection

3. L'Aventure Estate

4. Wente N'th Degree

5. O'Shaughnessy Estate

6. Ramey Jericho Canyon

7. Robert Craig Howell Mountain

8. Flora Springs Rutherford Hillsides

9. ZD Reserve

10 Palmaz Gaston

11. Ridge Monte Bello

12. Justin Isosceles 

This is the second blind tasting where Rocca has finished in first place since August. As reported on the Rocca Wines website, their 2004 vintage Cabernet Sauvignon also placed first in a Vintner's Club tasting held in San Francisco.

With Rocca winning two blind tastings with different vintages illustrates the ability of winemaker Celia Masyczek to create a wine that seems to transcend a particular style and appeal to two decidely different palates. This week's issue of The Wilder Side of California explores the breadth of Masyczek's portfolio of wines. Please joiin me in congratulating Celia Masyczek, along with Mary Rocca and Eric Grigsby of Rocca.

Last week was my first chance to taste the new releases from Jonata during a comprehensive expedition into the Santa Ynez Valley. I had the 2005 Pinot Noir La Poesia de Jonata with dinner at the rancho and it is the first to get a complete note written on it. Winemaker Matt Dees has exciting fruit to work with from the rolling hills of Santa Barbara.  

2005 Jonata Pinot Noir La Poesia de Jonata Sta. Rita Hills VF 92

Shows a rich polished nose of plum, black cherry and raspberry touched with a spray of anise. The palate is bright, round cherry and spice with smoothly sculpted acidity. Shows nice texture without astringency. The finish is pomegrtanate and graphite kissed with soft hints of cherry.

Overall, I visited with 11 winemakers and tasted 14 brands in three days. Keep an eye on free run juice for more reports from the field.

This was one of those days where I felt more like Andy Warhol than Doug Wilder... Which rock star is going to drop by and create a sensation today? As I'm writing this, I have contemplated which walls to carpet in shag and where to hang the disco ball. A moment of indulgence... please.

Autumn pulls Napa Valley to her breast in an embrace that I for one don't ever want to end. Harvest makes me whole in a way that is so primal that it takes my breath away sometimes. Maybe it is my October birthday that centers me so. Or perhaps it is the added excitement, on days like today when my calendar reads

Celia Masyczek - Corra tasting (debut and barrels), followed by

Abe Schoener - Scholium Project Autumn releases

When confronted with a chance to taste a pair of my favorite winemakers back to back, the 14 minute drive from an idyllic afternoon with the riveting wine of Celia Masyczek in Yountville stretched like an elastic tube until Abe Schoener walked into "The Factory" AKA Vinfolio-Napa and I was enveloped by the fugue notes of Scholium Project; The wines move around so much they are about as easy to put your finger on as a tomato seed after two margaritas. I was instantly rebounded into the silent, contemplative introspection required to fully inspect and come to terms with Scholium. There is a new label - I told Abe I would expect to see in a Berlin or Krakow gallery. I think you will love the new package. Abe poured me a pair of wines from Farina Vineyard, yes the source of La Severita di Bruto and Cena Trimalchionis (coincidentally appearing in this Friday's issue 128 of The Wilder Side of California)

Keep an eye out for the reviews appearing at Vinfolio soon.

If you have followed the wine business as I have for the last sixteen years, the name Celia Masyczek may have popped up on your radar about 10 years ago with the jotted note that this woman was a crafter of superb wines. It hit me like a ton of bricks when I tasted the 1998 Staglin Cabernet Sauvignon she made. There were few wines from this vintage that showed complexity and depth out of the chute. I made note of this accomplishment as well as the subsequent marks she made in her growingly prolific consulting career. Hartwell - now Cornerstone, DR Stephens, Husic, Rocca, 2480, Keever and Kelly Fleming have all experienced the impact of her winemaking.

On the other hand, you would need to have lived under a rock for the last 18 months to have missed the affirmation restowed on Celia's skill by Robert Parker when he rated the 2003 Scarecrow Cabernet Sauvignon she produced from JJ Cohn a WA 98. This particular wine is now selling for five times its release price. The world now knew the name that they had trouble pronouncing the first time. in these parts she is just "Celia" and my private tasting today confirmed what I have always felt about her. This enormous talent has been largely anonymous to consumers of the wines she has made over the last two decades. Within the community of wine professionals in the valley, she has been on her game seemingly forever. Her work commands my highest respect.

With all of the adulation coming her way from the Scarecrow scores (Vinfolio wrote the seminal review on the wine, a VF 97 in April 2006, eight months ahead of Wine Advocate), it might be reasonable for her head to spin a bit. However she remains one of the most intensely focused professionals I know. In my opinion the rest of the world is late to the game recognizing the skill that has now been brought to the forefront by the Parker score.

Early in the year, I stumbled across something I wasn't supposed to see: Celia's "Black Project" in the corner of a cave and as an inquisitive type asked about it. What I learned from the "gatekeeper" about it I had to swear to secrecy. I can now reveal it.

In 2004 Celia Masyczek embarked on her first personal project in the world of wine, creating Corra, a small production Cabernet Sauvignon never to exceed 350 cases. I couldn't wait to taste it! True to the values at Celia's core is a holistic philosophy of giving back. Now, arguably at the top of the heap of her profession, she has unleashed her wings. What this means to those she takes under her wing in the future can only bring a wealth of beauty to us all.

A full review of 2004 Corra will appear in The Wilder Side of California soon as part of a Masyczek box set. The VF 97 should be no shocker to those who know what Celia does.